1840's and 1850's Bonnets and Hats
Here are photos of reproduction bonnets and hats from the 1840s and 1850's. The 1840's styles were a bit more tubular in shape and sometimes called "poke" bonnets. In the 1850's the brims opened up more into a cone shape before getting taller in the 1860's. In addition to bonnets, ladies also wore Riding Hats, which were a lot like diminutive top hats, or Garden hats, which were intended to give shade to the face outdoors. Caps (under the bonnets) and evening headdresses were also worn. Bonnet shapes were made from cardboard or straw, and covered with fabric (or perhaps not in the case of straws), and decorations were varied over the two decades, with ribbons nad flowers being featured throughout the the period. These examples were made for various films, tv shows and private clients. Ycu can have your own made too!
This lacy straw bonnet was made from a synthetic straw that was originally a bright yellow sunhat! The straw was over-dyed to this olive green color.
Lacy straw bonnets were worn in the summer, in the first half of the 1860's. They allowed the breezes through, but kept the sun out of a lady's eyes.
The brim is edged with gimp that has been tinted to match the straw. The edges are also wired, but the wire is hidden completely.
The curtain is formed by a gathered piece of black antique lace, above which is a satin ribbon that forms a protective binding of the edges of the straw.
Over the crown is a wider satin ribbon topped with three types of grasses. Grasses were very typical decoration on lacy straws of the 1860's.
Back view of the lacy straw bonnet shows the symmetrical arrangement of the decoration.
The ties are black satin ribbon; comfortable and durable.
Made in 2014 for the TV series Hell On Wheels, this bonnet uses repurposed black paper straw from a thrift store hat.
The right hand side of the bonnet is relatively plain. Asymmetry was seen in some 1840's designs.
This bonnet is without a curtain, or bavolet. Images from Harpers Bazar in the 1840's show this type of style.
The trim consists of hand-tinted apple blossoms and gathered taffeta ribbon.
Here's a closer view of the trims.
The ribbon brocade floral ribbon ties were backed with matching taffeta ribbon to hide the loose threads on the back.
Detail of the floral ribbon used for ties and band. This ribbon came from Michael Levine's in Los Angeles.
This 1850's style was made for the Hell On Wheels TV series in 2015. It began as a natural-colored straw shape and was spray painted black for a funeral scene.
The shape is very round, and is sometimes called a "cottage bonnet".
The perimeter was trimmed with black velvet, which also forms the strings. Decorations are black velvet bows and vintage grapes.
Here is a detail of a pleated satin frill on the inside of the brim.
This 1853 straw bonnet was originally made for the TV show The Abandons from reclaimed paper and synthetic straw.
The back has a gentle roundness and the trims are natural cotton crochet lace.
The base of the chin tabs are trimmed with wheat and hand-tinted daisies.
The curtain is also made from natural lace.
Under the lace curtain there's a grosgrain ribbon binding to protect the wearer's neck from scratches.
The ribbon ties are of matching vintage taffeta.
A closer view of the wheat and daisies.
Inside this bonnet there's a wire hair comb to keep it from sliding backwards in wear.
Drawn bonnets were often made by ladies from scraps of fabric leftover from clothing.
This one has a wreath of flowers inside the brim - style that was seen in the 1850's
The ties are made from the same silk taffeta as was used for the drawn work.
This one has a flat back, but they could also be rounded.
Each row of drawn silk is divided with a row of piping cord that controls the fullness.
This side view shows off the tiny edging of lace that simulates a cap worn under the bonnet.
The inside of this one has a "tailored" lining. Traditionally they may or may not have been lined.
This late 1840's - early 1850's drawn bonnet is based on an example from the Metropolitan Museum in New York.
Each row of drawn work is edged with cording, and there are two rows of cording finishing the hem of the curtain.
The brim is trimmed with a pleated frill of brown silk taffeta, which is also used for the ties.
The bonnet has a slightly flared cone shape typical for the late 40's and early 50's
The edge of the brim is finished with a narrow lace trim
Here's a front view.
Detail of the corded ham.
The inside has been lined so that a cap becomes optional. Extant examples may or may not have linings.
Mostly made on the sewing machine, this brown paper straw bonnet is re-enforced with wire.
The front of the bonnet is finished with a braid of straw made from the strips used for the body. The band is made of floral ribbon and pleated silk.
Detail of the floral ribbon and pleated silk trim. The floral ribbon was purchased at Michael Levines in Los Angeles.
This one has a curtain of the same pleated silk as used on the band.
Detail of the inside of the brim.
Detail of the floral ribbon ties.
The inside of the brim is trimmed with apples blossoms, leaves, and a lace-trimmed piece of chiffon.
This straw bonnet was made for "Hell On Wheels" in 2014. The very wide ribbon ties are not quite historically correct.
This bonnet started out as a natural coloured straw hat. The hat was dyed grey and the back was cut away. Some of the brim was removed.
The outside was trimmed with a cream crochet lace band, grey velvet tubing, and greenish grey flowers
A curtain was made from steel grey taffeta ribbon.
The same taffeta ribbon forms the strings.
Holding this bonnet to the head are two horsehair loops and a wire comb. The crown is lined with cotton to keep the straw from catching the hair.
The inside of the brim was trimmed with grey net, grey lace, and hand-tinted greenish grey forget-me-nots, plus greyish green rose leaves.
Made in 2017, this straw bonnet is comfortable to wear as it is lined to keep the straw away from the skin and hair.
It has a lace trimmed curtain of sheer fabric and is decorated with embroidered ribbon which also forms the ties. The straw is bound with grosgrain at the bottom.
The straw braid was stitched by machine to make this bonnet more affordable.
Vintage glass raspberries and tiny blue forget-me-nots trim the left side of the bonnet.
The same sheer fabric trimmed with lace is gathered to line the inside of the bonnet, protecting the hair from catching in the straw braid. the embroidered ribbon ties are lined with taffeta ribbon.
A comb inside helps to keep the bonnet from sliding backwards off the head. and a tiny bouquet of raspberries and forget-me-nots decorate the top.
Detail view of the lace and flowers that trim the inside of the brim.
Another grey straw bonnet made in 2014 for "Hell On Wheels", this one was made for the character Mrs. Delaney.
Natural straw was dyed to a cool grey shade and sewn by hand to a buckram frame.
The curtain was made from a heavy grey lace from the costume designer's stock.
The crown was trimmed with shadow striped grosgrain ribbon and grey-green pussy willows.
This shape is one that would have been seen in the mid 1840's.
The inside of the brim was trimmed with fine tulle and lace in grey as well as a few pussy willows.
Detail of the curtain made from heavy grey lace.
Detail of the pussy willow trim.
To help the grosgrain lie smoothly across the crown a loose knot was made on the right side of the bonnet.
Two horsehair tabs and a wire comb hold the bonnet in place. The crown was lined with cotton, as this character needed to remove her bonnet in one scene.